Aca's jungle calling

When I meet Aca for the first time he welcomes me with a generous smile and shining black eyes.  He wears a sari wrapped around his hips and sandals. His skin is dark and healthy, his body and movements are like living cells of this forest. As we sit one of the evenings at a table with a burning candle drinking a lemongrass tea Aca speaks about his story, about his love for this jungle, his eco-lodge “Back to Nature” and about his large visions, goals and dreams.

You act as really connected to this place, you were born here, near this forest?

No, I was actually born in Medan, the capital of Sumatra, in 1966. So I come from a big and frantic city. My parents were very active, my father was highly ranked in the army he taught me the discipline, I guess I am a natural born activist. Since I was young I was very interested in politics, the system, I was active in different organizations, took part and lead demonstrations, and voiced my rights as a citizen.

What was your encounter with the jungle?

I came here a few times when I was in high school. Then I took a job in the orangutans rehabilitation center in Bukit Lawang. I worked there for three years. It was a turning point in my life. I learned so much about these beautiful animals and about their habitat. I learned how the jungle is simply essential and vital in our lives. I decided to stay. In 1990 I build my own guesthouse. In 1993 I moved to Holland with a project in my head, to return here and buy the jungle.

Why buying a jungle?

I felt I must do something. Last 30 years Sumatra has lost more than 50% of the tropical rainforest caused by rapidly spreading palm oil plantations. Palm oil companies cut down rainforests and sell the timber, the deforestation continues. Moreover the NGOs who are active in this region to protect the jungle are receiving a huge amount of money but none of this is invested into local communities, into local sustainable programs and education so that the people who are from here can have a revenue. The jungle can be protected and people can have revenues because of the jungle, if they know how to use it right.

Did your plan worked?

I had a successful restaurant in Holland, but it was an extremely busy, stressful, fast and draining lifestyle. But I was saving money and little by little started to buy the public jungle here that normally would be sold to oil palm business people and cut down. There is 300,000 ha of the public jungle that is in danger …Today I own more than 100 hectares. I have been buying jungle for 15 years now. It is my land that none of the oil industry can touch and cut down.

What is your next plan, your vision?

I want to show an example. Instead of cutting the jungle you can you can create an eco-tourism.

Eco tourism created by local people will grow a local economy. Today eco tourism is perceived as expensive, but it is not. It is for everybody. There are so many more solutions for local activities. Research shows there are 400 species of medical plants in this forest; the local people can sell it. You can grow here rattan palms to make furniture. You can grow sustainable coffee. You can create educational programmes for tourists of how the locals use the soil and the resources of the jungle. My plan is to open an exhibition centre in Bukit Lawang that explains this to visitors, this will drive tourists' interest in local activities.

We are sitting here tonight at your eco-lodge in the middle of the jungle; a truly magical and inspiring place. What was the process of creating this lodge?

When I decided to build this lodge in the jungle nobody believed in this project. People thought I was crazy because the challenge was huge. It took me 2,5 years to cut the trek along the river, to remove the stones so that people can pass. Every stone I hit and removed it was for one tree to be saved…I thought if tourists will get here, deeper into the jungle to experience it, I will save this forest.

Your dream came true?

It is becoming true. I opened the lodge five years ago. People who stay here fall in love with this nature; they also understand it more. We have more and more visitors; we also run educational programmes for students who come here for a weekend or few days. I grow medical plants and cure people. I want to open a natural healing centre for locals and foreigners, educate them. I want to set an example to a local community. Things start happening. Local community trusts me, so we can work together; so much to do. The jungle is always calling.

Back to Nature - eco lodge

While I was writing about places in Sumatra these last few weeks I could not wait to write about this beautiful Eco Lodge “Back to Nature.” It does not happen often to come upon such a unique and mesmerizing space. And if you forgot how inspiring, powerful and nurturing nature is and are looking for a place to reconnect with it, and if you happen to be in this corner of the world  this is a place where you will fall in love with nature again. While staying here you become an integral element of this ecosystem, of this natural cycle, you live in the midst of it with the constant sound of the river, monkeys swinging over your head while you are taking a shower in an open air, you tune in to weather changes with clear sky and sun that welcomes you in the morning and tropical rain and thunder storms that will make your heart beating faster. And after the heavy rainfall the jungle comes back to life in front of your eyes with hundreds animals, birds and other species sticking out their heads and making the forest to vibrate again; with clouds of steam evaporating from the trees and soil and traveling into the sky. To create such a special place you need a very special soul and mind to do that and I will speak about this person in the next article. He built this Lodge with his own hands and help of a few people, the rooms are very large, filled with natural light, furnished with beautiful hand made pieces. There are comfortable seats on the terrace with the views over the jungle and the river. The food is vegetarian and the staff simply wonderful people. Do you I need to convince you more?

Getting there: “Back to Nature” sits right on the river bank on the border of  Gunung Leuser National Park. Your destination is so known Bukit Lawang, the place to watch the famous Sumatran orangutans. While there is plenty of accommodation in the village, “Back to Nature” is deeper in the jungle and it takes around 30 minutes of a hike along the river. You can call the lodge to reserve a room and they will come to pick you up in Bukit Lawang (tel: 0813 756 57004).

Activities: Wildlife/ orangutans watching, jungle treks, river rafting.

Tangkahan

It was not easy to get to Tangkahan but I was rewarded in every sense of what I was looking for. I found the wide and emerald Kualsa Buluh river where I took tens of re energizing dips and swims; a beautiful and unspoiled tropical forest, thousands of sounds and voices of the jungle, and…the elephants. Many years ago the elephants were used to patrol the jungle against loggers and poachers. As later this area was declared protected by the government the elephants stayed. Today although they don't live fully in the wild they lead natural existence with their families in a large habitat. A few times a week they walk all together down to the river to take a bath. It is an utterly magic moment to witness them taking a dip while they massive bodies suddenly are lifted by the water and they free a sound of ultimate pleasure. And if you are fortunate to be there that day you can give them a scrub afterward. My female elephant enjoyed entirely the activity and I felt so blessed to be so close this highly intelligent greatness.

Getting there: if you travel from lake Toba you need to take a bus back to Medan, to Pinang Baris terminal where you take another bus to Tangkahan. It takes around 2-3 hours from Medan but it took me much longer and I was fortunate to meet wonderful people to get me to Tangkahan before the nightfall. First the bus from Medan broke down so we waited 40 minutes for the next one. 10 km from Tangkahan is the final bus stop as the river bridge is broken. Then you need to ask a local for a motorbike ride on a very tortuous road. After a day of such travel you want to stay on this paradise river bank for days and never think again about Sumatran buses and motorbikes.

in those eyes

So much joy, curiosity, love and truth is those eyes it gives me an ocean of warmth each time I look into them.

Liberta homestay on Samosir Island

What I loved about my stay in Samosir Island was certainly a very relaxed Liberta Homestay, a guest house run by the kindness soul Mr Moon. The hotel is located in TukTuk village, only five minutes walk from the ferry pier. I had my own Batak cottage, the one located closest to the lake, surrounded by banana and mango trees and a beautiful garden. My bedroom was on the upper floor and I could watch the sunrise from its window. The fishermen would come on their boats each early morning to check on their nets making it even a more special place. The cottages are simple, each with a balcony or a small terrace, I enjoyed mine very much. I would recommend this hotel to anyone looking for a peaceful and serene setting.

lake Toba and Samosir island

After many days in Lho-nga in the north tip of Sumatra it was time to head south to the lake Toba. This grand-ocean blue lake, found high up among volcanic peaks, is where the Christian Batak people live. I was a bit nervous fearing to arrive at a tourist packed destination but what I found was a low-key and welcoming  Tuk-Tuk village and surroundings (I arrived late September in a low season period). Tuk-Tuk is situated on the Samosir Island that sits right in the middle of the lake. The island is verdant green with rice plantations, palm and banana trees. For a few days I explored the island mainly on a scooter or hiking and each time met wonderfully warm and inviting people. My christian name Magdalena added that extra enthusiasm to our conversations.

Travel: to get to lake Toba from the north I took internal flight from Banda Aceh to Medan and then a bus from Medan to Parapat (map of northen Sumatra). To get to Tuk-Tuk you need to take a ferry from Parapat.

Ocean re-connect

While living in a land locked country I miss sometimes the ocean immensely and often I strategize when will I see and swim in it again. And when I finally reach this wild water it feels like coming  back to my sources. I am back in my element. The big water grounds me, and the wind feels so familiar, an idea of taking off on a sailing boat for a long trip or building an eco-open house somewhere near the ocean become suddenly such possible things to do.

Joe's place

This guest house sits right on a beautiful and wide beach that connects Lampuk and Lho-nga villages. There are a few bungalows perched on a rock with the ocean views. Joe’s place caters mainly to surfers; the surfing spot is a walking distance along the beach. Very chilled atmosphere, good crowd and food, oven baked pizzas and fresh grilled fish on the menu. Loved the place.