Isle of Pines, South Pacific

The Isle of Pines was the last stop of my travel in New Caledonia before heading back to Australia. The island is just 100 km southeast of the New Caledonia’s capital Noumea and is part of the French-Pacific territory. This is the first time I have experienced the South Pacific island; I had little time on my hands (only two days) but still enough to feel the peace and quietness of island life.

The ocean shells exposed near Kuto Bay. 

I have finally found a fresh, grilled fish that I could buy and eat right on the beach ( I had difficulty to find this type of food in New Caledonia). Nothing tastes better than a simple meal of a fresh fish or lobster straight from the grill.

The Kuniés, as the island's inhabitants are known, continue to lead a peaceful life. They try to keep their gorgeous natural islands calm and as simple as they've been for hundreds of years. Their land remains extremely protected by the tribal system, the land is neither for sale nor for rent. The Kunies I met during my stay were all very kind, polite and friendly. 

The Kuniés have kept alive the tradition of sailing pirogues (outrigger canoes), and I sailed for a few hours on this boat across the calm lagoon.

My captain was a bit dry at first but he warmed up after an hour and talked about his island with a great passion.  

We sailed peacefully through transparent waters of Upi Bay.

The sails were in excellent condition and were made in Noumea, New Caledonia. I was explained that the price of sails is still very high for people from the island, therefore they are well taken care of as they need to perform for many years.

After the sailing trip I was dropped on a little beach and walked through the rain forest to the next bay.

Spectacular Oro Bay where I had a long swim. 

A natural pool called Oro. There was lots of coral and tropical fish. The story says that the island was discovered by the captain James Cook in 1774; he did not disembark but as he passed by on his ship he noticed these very tall pine trees and named the island Isle of Pines. Only in 1840 the first catholic missionaries arrived here.

Crossing one of the interior lagoons.

Despite some tourism the island remains an unspoiled, turquoise paradise. There is no litter found on beaches or in forests, there is no artificial noise, only the sound of the ocean and birds. It is a pristine and clean land closely protected by its own people who were born here since hundreds of years. Wonderful to experience such protected, natural beauty.

Accomodation to recommend: Gite Kuberka near Kuto bay, relaxed and simple bungalows, with a pool and beautiful garden, owned by a local family (cold, draft beer is served).

Valencia's different life

What would be a travel without meeting inspiring people? At the end an inspiration has nothing to do with a beautiful beach or an exotic country; the inspiration lives in people and their stories that I am privileged to come across during traveling.

This time I met Valencia who lives on a little, isolated island near the main coast of New Caledonia. As a young woman Valencia was leading a glamorous life of a rich lady in the French colony. Married to a successful and rich businessman she was used to luxury, flew in private planes, wore fancy dresses, attended elite parties and had just about anything she wanted. After losing most of the money fortune and separating from her husband Valencia has decided to start a new, different life. Many would probably fall into depression and regret for the rest of their lives of what they have lost; Valencia moved to this little island where she is surrounded by animals, nature and sea she loves. Her income comes from farming sheep and every day she works very hard taking care of them and of the the house. Her children live in different parts of the world and rarely they comes to visit. She adopted a local boy who is now an adult and his daughter is on many of the pictures above.  As we said "good bye" Valencia said with a genuine smile "Yes, it is a different, less glamorous life here but it is a true life of mine."

On the sea again

The last time I have been out on the sea on a boat was six months ago so it was very special to go on a sea trip thanks to my friend's father, a great and gentle Captain from New Caledonia.  We left in the early morning on a brilliant, sunny day, when the sea is calm and there is almost no wind. We passed by little islands and stopped at the reef for some swimming and snorkeling. There was some relaxing time on a small beach of Little Tenia. These are all the shades of blues found in New Caledonia.

“So fine was the morning except for a streak of wind here and there 

that the sea and sky looked all one fabric, as if sails were stuck high up in the sky, 

or the clouds had dropped down into the sea..”

 Virginia Woolf - To the lighthouse 1927