Tangkahan

It was not easy to get to Tangkahan but I was rewarded in every sense of what I was looking for. I found the wide and emerald Kualsa Buluh river where I took tens of re energizing dips and swims; a beautiful and unspoiled tropical forest, thousands of sounds and voices of the jungle, and…the elephants. Many years ago the elephants were used to patrol the jungle against loggers and poachers. As later this area was declared protected by the government the elephants stayed. Today although they don't live fully in the wild they lead natural existence with their families in a large habitat. A few times a week they walk all together down to the river to take a bath. It is an utterly magic moment to witness them taking a dip while they massive bodies suddenly are lifted by the water and they free a sound of ultimate pleasure. And if you are fortunate to be there that day you can give them a scrub afterward. My female elephant enjoyed entirely the activity and I felt so blessed to be so close this highly intelligent greatness.

Getting there: if you travel from lake Toba you need to take a bus back to Medan, to Pinang Baris terminal where you take another bus to Tangkahan. It takes around 2-3 hours from Medan but it took me much longer and I was fortunate to meet wonderful people to get me to Tangkahan before the nightfall. First the bus from Medan broke down so we waited 40 minutes for the next one. 10 km from Tangkahan is the final bus stop as the river bridge is broken. Then you need to ask a local for a motorbike ride on a very tortuous road. After a day of such travel you want to stay on this paradise river bank for days and never think again about Sumatran buses and motorbikes.